Paperwork and VIN
Start with the documents. A problem here can make the rest of the inspection pointless.
Decode the VIN with our VIN decoder to confirm the year, make, model and engine match the listing, and run it through our free recall check. Open recalls can be fixed free at a dealer, but you should know about them.
- The VIN on the dashboard and door jamb matches the title and registration.
- The seller's name matches the title, or they can explain why not.
- Look for title brands such as salvage, rebuilt or flood.
- Ask for maintenance and repair records.
- Consider a vehicle history report for accidents, ownership and odometer records.
Exterior and body
Look at the vehicle in good daylight, on level ground, when it is dry. Walk all the way around and crouch down to look along the sides.
- Paint that does not match between panels, or overspray on trim
- Uneven gaps between doors, hood, trunk and fenders
- Rust on the body, especially wheel wells, rocker panels and door bottoms
- Rust or damage visible on the frame from outside the vehicle
- Cracked glass, damaged lights or mismatched headlight lenses
- Signs of flood damage: musty smell, silt or water lines, rust on seat rails or under the dash
Under the hood, tires and brakes
Ask the seller not to start the vehicle before you arrive, so you can hear it start cold. A warm engine can hide starting and noise problems.
With the engine off and cool, look for oil or coolant leaks, cracked hoses and belts, corrosion on the battery terminals and signs of recent cleaning that might hide leaks. Check the oil: very dark, gritty or milky oil is worth asking about. Do not open a hot radiator cap.
Tires tell you a lot. Uneven wear, such as more wear on one edge, can point to alignment or suspension problems. Check that all four tires are a matching type and look at the sidewalls for cracks or bulges. Look through the wheels at the brake rotors for deep grooves or heavy rust lips. Push down on each corner of the vehicle. It should rebound once and settle, not bounce repeatedly.
Inside and electronics
When you turn the key to on, the warning lights should come on briefly and then go off once the engine starts. A warning light that never comes on at all may have been disabled. Test every window, lock, mirror, seat adjustment, light, the horn, wipers, heater, air conditioning, radio and any screens or cameras.
A mechanic can plug in a scan tool to check for stored codes and whether the emissions monitors are ready. Monitors that are not ready can mean codes were recently cleared.
Test drive
Drive long enough for the engine to reach normal temperature, on a mix of roads and speeds.
- Listen for knocks, ticks, whines or clunks at start-up, idle and while driving.
- Check that the transmission shifts smoothly, without slipping, delays or hard jerks.
- Brake firmly in a safe spot: the vehicle should stop straight without pulling, grinding or pulsing.
- On a straight road, the vehicle should track straight without constant steering correction.
- Turn fully both ways at low speed and listen for clicking or groaning.
- After the drive, look underneath for fresh drips and check for warning lights.
RVs and trailers need extra checks
For a motorhome or travel trailer, water damage is the big risk. Look for soft spots in floors, walls and ceilings, stains around windows, vents and roof seams, and a musty smell. Check the roof and seals, run each slide-out in and out, test the refrigerator, water heater, furnace, air conditioner, water pump and generator, and ask about the tires' age as well as tread.
Have a mechanic inspect it
Even a careful buyer can miss things a trained eye will catch. A mobile mechanic can meet you at the seller's home or lot and inspect the vehicle there, then give you a written summary. A reasonable seller should allow an independent inspection; a seller who refuses is a warning sign.
Through Trackara Find, you can send a free request for a pre-purchase inspection to mobile mechanics who cover the area where the vehicle is.