Noises when you brake
Many brake pads have a small metal tab called a wear indicator. When the pad gets thin, the tab touches the rotor and makes a high-pitched squeal while braking. That squeal is designed to tell you it is time for new pads.
Grinding is more serious. A deep grinding or scraping noise usually means the pad material is gone and metal is rubbing on the rotor. This reduces braking and quickly damages rotors, turning a pad job into a bigger repair. Stop driving and have it checked.
Not every noise means trouble. A light squeak on the first few stops of a damp morning can come from surface rust on the rotors and go away quickly. If a noise persists, get it inspected.
How the pedal feels
The brake pedal should feel firm and consistent. Changes in pedal feel are some of the most important warning signs.
- Soft or spongy pedal: can mean air in the brake lines or a fluid problem.
- Pedal sinks slowly toward the floor while you hold it: can mean a leak or a failing master cylinder.
- Pedal goes to the floor: a serious failure. Do not drive.
- Hard pedal that takes a lot of effort: can point to a brake booster problem.
- Pulsing or vibration in the pedal during normal stops: often uneven or warped rotors. (A rapid pulsing during a hard stop on a slippery road can be the ABS working normally.)
Pulling, vibration and smells
If the vehicle pulls to one side when you brake, one brake may be sticking or not working as well as the other. A stuck caliper can also cause a burning smell and a very hot wheel after driving.
Shaking in the steering wheel when braking often points to rotor problems on the front brakes. A sharp burning smell after heavy braking on a long downhill can be normal overheating, but if it happens in normal driving, have it checked. Never touch brake parts after driving; they can be extremely hot.
Leaks and fluid
Brake fluid is usually clear to light amber when fresh and gets darker with age. A wet spot near a wheel or on the inside of a tire, or a puddle under the vehicle near a wheel or below the master cylinder, can be a brake fluid leak. A brake fluid leak can lead to brake failure, so do not drive and have it inspected.
Your owner's manual will tell you where the brake fluid reservoir is. A low level can mean worn pads or a leak. Do not simply top it off and ignore it.
Brake and ABS warning lights
A red brake warning light can mean the parking brake is on, the brake fluid is low, or there is a problem in the brake system. If it stays on after releasing the parking brake, especially with a soft pedal, stop driving.
An amber ABS light means the anti-lock brake system has a fault. Normal brakes usually still work, but the anti-lock function may not. Have it checked soon and allow extra stopping distance in the meantime.
If both the red brake light and the ABS light come on together, treat it as serious and have the vehicle checked before driving.
When not to drive
Do not drive the vehicle, and have a mechanic come to it instead, if any of these happen:
- The brake pedal goes to the floor or keeps sinking
- The red brake warning light is on with a soft or low pedal
- Loud grinding from the brakes
- Visible brake fluid leaking near a wheel
- The vehicle pulls hard to one side or will not stop straight
Getting brakes fixed at home
Brake pads, rotors, calipers and fluid service are common mobile mechanic jobs on many cars and trucks, provided the vehicle is on firm, level ground. For trailers and RVs, mobile technicians also work on trailer brakes and axles. Do not try to lift and support a vehicle yourself to inspect brakes; leave it to the mechanic.
With Trackara Find, you can send a free request describing the noise or pedal feel, with a video if you have one, to mobile mechanics who cover your area. The mechanic quotes before starting. Learn more about brake repair or read how to describe a car problem.